- Always, always put the caller where you can see it.

- Always put the caller directly in front of you.

- Take a good look around your stand before you start calling and look for things that might resemble a coyote. That way, when you do start calling, you won't be moving to look through your scope or binoc's to look at these (looks like a coyote) Gremlins out there. This will also help you notice that little dot (predator) out there that wasn't there when you started your set.

- It's also a good idea to take some readings with a range finder before you start your set, so that you will know (known) yardages when a predator does come in.

- Always remember to lower the volume on your caller at the end of a set-up. This will prevent you from starting the next set with the volume turned to loud.

- Before setting your caller out to start a set-up, make sure to check that you have the local/remote (marked L and R) switch in the right position before turning on the caller . This will prevent you from blowing the set up with a caller blaring a distress call, etc.

- The Bank A and B switch (Model 532) can be in either position when using the remote.

- A green light flashing on the caller is a reminder that your batteries are getting low. If the caller starts skipping, especially at higher volume levels, this is also an indication that the batteries are getting low. By lowering the volume a little you can get through a set, but fresh batteries will be needed soon.

- Always start off on low volume (in case a predator is close by, you don't want to blast a nearby predator out of the country).

- A coyote can hear a mouth blown call from as far as a mile away, so don't use too much volume . They hear alot better then you think they can. Always take a good look around before starting another series on a mouth blown call, or the FOXPRO, as there may well be a coyote looking right at you.

- A lot of the time, I will just start with a mouth squeak, or you can also use one of those hand squeakers. Or get a squeaker sound installed on your unit (you would be surprised how many coyotes you can harvest this way). Thank Verne Howey for that tip. A mouth squeak will be heard along way off. It's amazing just how far a coyote, or other predator, can hear this.

- I usually put the caller 20 to 30 yrds away from me. This cuts down the chance that you will be seen while placing the caller. I'm not saying that this is the right way to do it, but it works for me. In more open ground, you will probably want to set the caller farther away. Perhaps across a draw from you, or down in the bottom. Make sure you can see down into the area where you place the caller. This will save you a lot of frustration. If you cant see the low spot, a coyote can, and will, at one time or another get in and out without you seeing it until its too late . In big open areas, I will often use a decoy. I have found that in these areas, a coyote is reluctant to come across unless it sees a reason to do so (this is where a decoy dog really shines). I have found that when calling CRP and stubble, the coyotes are usually up on the tops of these areas. I always try to get at least 1/3 of the way down a hillside to set up. Watch your back as well as the bottoms. Don't turn around to look while calling, just slowly turn your head once in a while. Slow movements are most important. Move your head like a second hand on a watch-- very, very slowly.

- Learning your areas will be trial and error on your part. I say this because in some areas, I never turn the caller off and have great success. In other areas, I find it more productive to use short series. I'll usually start a set with the caller on low volume (low volume is when I can barely here it from my stand). Then, I will wait for 5 to 7 minutes before raising the volume, in case a predator is nearby. After the 5 to 7 minute mark, I'll raise the volume to 1/8 to 1/4 and let it play. Most of the time, I never shut the caller off. I think this is an advantage to lure in predators that have been educated to the mouth call cadence. I feel that in a lot of cases, the steady sound will fool even an educated predator (remember, this is done with very low volume, and mostly early on in the season). This can cause a rodeo to occur due to the fact that the predator will lock onto the sound and come straight to the caller. Sometimes very fast (another great reason to have a remote unit). You have to be prepared for fast action when using this technique.

- Another technique I use is as follows. I will turn the caller on low volume , and wait. If nothing shows after the 5 to 7 minute mark, then I will begin a series of distress calls on a mouth blown call, raising the volume above the caller. I put a lot of hurt into it ( but not to loud ). Make the series of distress sounds short, and wait. I have had great success doing this. I feel that what happens is this: A predator hears the mouth blown call, and starts coming in . Then, the animal will lock onto the FOXPRO, and come right where you want him (I.E. to the caller leaving you undetected).

NOTE: I think one mistake that a lot of callers make is that they use too much volume.

- Another technique I use involves a mouth blown howler. You could also use a female invitation on the FOXPRO, and the male howl. Randy Anderson's howls also are great producers. I prefer a mouth blown howler due to the fact that I can make the sounds that I want to. I'll start with a female howl, wait for five minutes, and if nothing shows, I'll follow with a male howl. Wait, and then begin a series of distress sounds-- again with the FOXPRO playing on low volume . This is very productive year round, but most of all during the mating and denning season.

- Another howling sequence that has been working well is a series of hunting barks and yips while the FOXPRO is playing a distress sound on very low volume.

- A coyote that is howled in will (usually) come in down wind to smell or try to see the competition before he gets too close. If you don't get a howl in return, do not assume that a coyote is not coming. Most of the time they will not howl back if they are approaching. If you get a howl in return and have waited a long time (as a rule, I use 30 minutes) and nothing is showing up, go toward the coyote that is howling back. Do this like a coyote does (I.E. use the low ground and move quietly). Watch your wind, and do not skyline yourself. Going toward them seems to really make them mad, and usually will start them in your direction. This will sometimes work if they are not coming to you.

- If you are getting a warning bark (this is a sound you need to learn to recognize), don't assume its all over. This doesn't work very often, but I have had it work for me and one of my favorite calling buddies, Curt Barrett. It's best done with two people, and both must be able to blow a howler. Return the warning bark, while your partner is making coyote vocalizations-- I.E. challenge barks, pup distress. As I said, this has worked for me, even after receiving a warning bark. Putting your calling partner on higher ground and a little down wind of your position is a good idea, if possible.

- A lot of callers might disagree with me, but in my experience, I have had just as many if not more coyotes come in up wind as down wind. Perhaps I have less pressure in my areas. This is why I always try to call cross wind. Position yourself so that if a predator comes in to the call , he will have to cross your path to get to the sound. If a coyote is coming in fast, a bark made with your mouth will usually stop him. Make sure you are ready to shoot when you do this, as you won't have much time to take the shot. If you shoot the coyote, or you miss, go directly to the pup in distress. Many times this will stop a fleeing coyote, or call in another . This can be done with your voice as well. Just yelp as if you are a puppy with its foot under yours, or just bark (woof woof), to stop a coyote. Never quit calling if a coyote comes in to the call early on. Many times, you can score a double, or more, by staying put and keep calling with a distress sound as well.

I would like to thank John and Mike @ Go Go Varmint Go for the great web site, and all of you for all the help over the years. I hope someone gets some good tips from this. I would also like to thank John and Mike Dillon @ FOXPRO for a wonderful caller. It sure has helped me with my ADC work.

Jerry Malbeck, AKA Moses Man

A list of my favorite and most productive sounds on the FOXPRO

The FOXPRO staff has a number of great new sounds that I have not yet field tested. This fall, I will be testing the newer sounds that I feel will be productive in my area.

Woodpecker's
Coyote Pup Distresses
Coyote Vocalizations
Cow Bird
Canine Pup Distress
Starling Distress
Rabbit Distress Sounds (ex. 233, L00)
Rodent Squeak
Baby Pig Distress
Groundhog Distress
Prairie Dog Distress
Kitten Distress
Fawn Bawl