Jack Decoys

FOXPRO Inc.

The Furtakers

FAQ


Jack in the Box Related Questions


bar

Q. Can I use other brand decoys with my FOXPRO game call?
A.Possibly. The auxiliary jack found on most FOXPRO game call units with TX5LR and TX-200 remote controls does not send voltage or current out its jack. It has a FET output that takes the tip of the connector to ground through the FET. The output is held on as long as the button is held. The FOXPRO Jack-in-the-Box Decoy has a latching function to keep it on with just one push of a button. This was done so that you could connect a variety of items to the jack such as a camera.

The auxiliary jack is simply a momentary switch. Not all decoys on the market work on the same latching mechanism as our Jack-in-the-Box Decoy. Some decoys would only operate for the duration that you have the auxiliary button pressed on the transmitter.

Also bear in mind that some decoys on the market emit RF noise from their motors. This can adversely affect the range achievable by remote control.


bar

Q. Can I change the sounds in my Jack-in-the-Box Decoy?

A. No. This sound cannot be changed.

bar

Q. Can I build a remote control switch for my Jack-in-the-Box Decoy?

The FOXPRO Jack-in-the-Box Decoy is designed for remote control operation with most any FOXPRO remote control wildlife caller. These callers have a jack to connect a short cable to the decoy to allow the decoy sound and movement to be controlled by the remote control.

However, it is possible to construct a wired device to permit the remote control of the JIB decoy without a remote control caller. This simple control switch is easy to make, and even though an interconnect wire is required, it will allow you to place the decoy away from your hunting position and still retain control of its operation.

Parts required include a small momentary pushbutton switch, a suitable housing for the switch such as a plastic 35mm file canister, a 1/8 in phone jack connector, and some speaker wire. Everything but the film canister is available from the nearest Radio Shack store. You could use one of their "project boxes" instead of the plastic film canister. The "momentary, normally open" switch stock number is 278-1547. The connector stock number is 274-858, and 75 feet of 24 gauge speaker cord has stock number of 278-1509. You may find better prices at independent electronic stores or repair shops.

Begin construction by drilling or cutting a mounting hole for the switch and an exit hole for the wire in your housing. Place one end of the speaker wire into the housing and solder the two wires to the terminals on the switch. Pay no regard to polarity as it doesn't matter. Solder the two wires of the other end of the speaker cord (again, no regard to polarity) to the 1/8 inch jack. Note that the connector has three terminals. Ground, tip, and ring. You must use the "ground" and "tip" terminals. Make no connection to the "ring" terminal. If you can't identify them, ask the sales person to help you identify them. If you have no experience with soldering, ask someone for help. Parts can be damaged by improper soldering attempts.

That's all there is to it. To test the switch, plug the connector end into the JIB remote jack. With the decoy operating, you should be to stop and start the action with alternating pushes of the switch. Since so little electrical current is required to control the decoy, you could use wires lengths of 100 feet or more if desired.


JIB Switch